Samarkand

“In the heart of Samarkand, embrace timeless wonders and find their space, Registan’s glow a tale in stone, where artisans’ dreams have brightly shone”

-Poems from Uzbekistan

The high speed train late afternoon noon is was still very note. Samarkand widely considered Uzbekistan’s most magnificent city the cross road for many conquerors and a main city on the ancient Silk Road this is what first sparked my interest in this country. Its long history is most famously linked to the legacy of the great 14th century ruler Tamerlane whose aim was to create the richest city on earth.

We arrived just with enough time to go to the heart of Samaya d Registan Square it was just like the pictures before stopping a a restaurant to watch the sun set of Registan square. The roof top offered a great view. The menu is mostly grill or BBQ meats with salad .

After dinner, a visit Amir Timur (Tamerlane )'s magnificent mausoleum. the night was starting to cool the gardens look so colourful in the night light. We did not go inside as I would revisit this on the last day.

We then headed back to Registan Square as they had a light show, they do this 3 times a week during the summer. I’ve included some photos but they do not do it justice it’s about a 30 minute extravaganza they vary the language I had Uzbek but you could follow.

The city have built a special compound aoubt 3km is out of town to house the majority of international hotels fenced with guards. I was at the Hilton Samarkand Regency which was a a two-minute walk to the Rowing Canal and three kilometres to the heart of Silk Road Samarkand, the Eternal City. The hotel has so much open space with lots of marble every where even 2 tennis courts which would have been too hot to play on during g the day. They even had a roof top bar which as you know I had to visit on the 20th floor. I took my guide Kamala for a light dinner to watch the sunset. The food was smoked local river trout, burrata and tomatoes, Longman noodles and vegetables (Uyghurs people noodles)

To beat the heat we started very early going to the mysterious Afrosiab Museum with the original frescos of the first and most ancient settlement in Samarkand. Next was the Shahki-Zinda necropolis which sits on a pretty hill overlooking the city. Its stunning avenue of mausoleums reveals examples of the world famous blue majolica tile-work, considered some of the richest in the Muslim world. These date back to the 7th century totally amazing, the city co tu use to restore these cites

Next, to the impressive Bibi Khanym Mosque, one of the largest in Central Asia, built by Tamerlane to commemorate his favourite wife.

My photos don’t show how magnificent they were the colour most are. 40 metres high

Just before lunch we moved to the Siab Market where stalls are bursting with colourful handicrafts and mounds of fresh fruits, spices, nuts and freshly baked bread. The market was so clean no market smells no rubbish in the floor.

Surprisingly they sell a lot of bird seeds but equally surprising I did t see many birds

Lunch was at a local city teahouse where I sample the famous Pilov. A rice dish made with different types of carrots and meat that had been slowed cook we had lamb. They served a spinach and cheese dumplings, tomatoe salad and yoghurt. It was very good not sure I’d eat lots of it

After lunch, we stroll along the pedestrian street towards the Registan Square with its magnificent buildings. On the way I stopped at the workshops. where I made a purchase of some Uzbek local pottery it took awhile for me to make a selection so many design so many different shades of blue. With the help of the guide, shop owners a phone call to the artisan to make sure I selected dishwasher safe i selected. 4 plate bowls so beautiful .

Registan Square the sheer size of everything a lot of titles where the heat radiated up. The name Registan translates as Sandy Place ledend says the sand was to absorb the blood of the victims executed in the square. They say Tamerlane used to bring the victims heads to the square. It is a UNESCO world heritage listing it originates from the tomb of 9th century saint Imam Muhammad bin Djafar in the 14 century. Initially 6 roads through the square to connect to Timur’s citadel. They are amount the worlds oldest madrassas anything older was destroyed by Genghis khan

There are 3 main buildings in Registan madrassas which means an islam university or college today these madrassas are occupied by souvenir shops and official receptions for concerts. Sher Dor and Tilla-Kari madrassas are on either side they were completed in 1660. The centre piece is the Ulithi Beg Madrassas so beautiful gold leaf the domes

Guess who in Samarkand