Palampur

“Palmpur is a small beautiful city located in the foothills Himalayas. Framed by snow-capped mountains. Surrounded by pine forests, famous for its tea estates, having copious streams running down from the mountains to the plains. A hill station known for its greenery and scenic beauty. Palampur is surely worth seeing”

-Neetu Rajeev Kapoor

Shimla to Palampur was a 6 hour journey by car down a narrow winding road then up a narrow winding road then down into the valley again. As there were no places for me to each lunch, I had a boxed lunch from the hotel. I’d asked for an eggs sandwich thinking it would be like we have in Australia but looked like a piece of butter between 2 slices of bread but on eating it I discovered I omelette sandwich which was ok there were some muffins and fruit. Palampur known as the tea capital of Northern India. I was staying at beautiful lodge in the Wah Tea Estate, established in 1857 and now the largest working tea estate in the Kangra Valley. Interestingly this lodge was owned by the cousin of the lodge I stayed at last year in Darjeeling very different but the same excellent service.

The Lodge at Wah is more than a homestay: made entirely from eco-friendly materials and built using the skills of local craftsmen. The structure is made entirely of mud, with slate roofs are inspired by the Gaddi tribal homes. The result is a natural, eco-friendly home that delivers a wholesome experience, far off the beaten path. The meals were great sitting with the family and other guests.

One night we had a vegetarian Tali I really liked the black chickpeas, another night wood fired pizza cooked on wood fired pizza oven. I was the only guest so they invited guests from another homestay for dinner such a great night they were all affluent India families.

In the morning after a walk thought the organic vegetable garden. I visited the sites of interest nearby village Andretta, a tranquil village an artists’ colony. One house was the home mud brick home of Irish writer and dramatist Norah Richards, who established the village in the 1920s the house wasn’t open but walking through the lovely gardens you could appreciate how he was inspired. Next was a visit to Sobha Singh at the small family-run gallery the house annd contents were well preserved no photos anllowed the anre was Christian inspired with some local landscapes and a self portrait. The final stops was Andretta Pottery school this was very interesting the pottery was contemporary in design I was attracted to the coffee/tea mugs in blue but as I’d made a purchase in Uzbekistan I just couldn’t carry anything else.

Lunch at a local cafe it was ultra clean but I was the only client so I went with buttered naan and a drink not knowing what the food looked like.

Next a visit to Baijnath temple. A famous Shiva temple, a beautiful example of early medieval architecture built in the 13th century. This was a remarkable temple very old and preserved the locals protected it from the moguls who tried ti destroy it when they came to concurred this area .

Now for a ride on the narrow gauge Kangra railway built by the British but still survives today. Some stations have been modernised but the control of the train is done the same was as when it was originally built. They pass a key from train driver to station master and the manual lever system changes the trackers. It all 2nd class with women’s only carriages.

The car and driver collect the guide and myself and we drove a short distance to the Tasha Jong Monastery. The monks and students that reside here are Tibetan Refugees. It was very colourful we many monks chanting the mantras. The younger boys were preparing for exams and sat on the floor books in hand. I was told the Himalayas were the back drop but with heat haze and pollution from the burning of rubbish I had to trust the guide.